G8JNJ
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Please note: GPS lock and frequency accuracy
This is a typical data sheet for the type of ceramic patch used in the small GPS puck.
https://datasheets.kyocera-avx.com/ethertronics/AVX-E_1001039.pdf
Note the 70x70mm PCB ground plane used in the measurement test setup.
The 30x30 PCB inside the puck is really just a bit too small, and the polar diagram and off-axis noise rejection is improved by having a larger ground plane below it.
Many of the external GPS antennas are basically just the guts of a puck, mounted on a larger ground plane, and inclosed in a waterproof housing.
Regards,
Martin
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Antenna Considerations / Do's and Don'ts
I watched one of Techmind's video's relating to the End feed antenna.
https://youtu.be/VYt3-jkBfaQ?feature=shared
Some things of note.
He is on the edge of rural farmland, so the noise floor will be lower than if he was in the middle of at typical UK housing estate, it is also likely that his utility services will be buried rather than being carried by overhead wires, which will further improve the noise floor.
He has installed the antenna in the best way possible, with the feed point located way from the property, and he has also installed a choking balun and separate RF ground, although this could be further improved. Ideally, he should also have incorporated some form of galvanic isolation, in order to reduce the risk of ground loops, or possible issues with UK wiring regulations and mains safety.
Regards,
Martin
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Dragging band edge and losing the "handle" [fixed in v1.700]
Hi John,
Not a big deal, but it may be related to the mouse behaviour.
I notice that sometimes when I click on the waterfall, the KiWi doesn't tune to that frequency, but it remains on an existing frequency. A second click is then required before it tunes correctly.
I have only noticed this over the past month or so, but it may have been like this for a while.
Regards,
Martin
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Antenna Considerations / Do's and Don'ts
An End Fed wire antenna is by it's nature not balanced, and they have a reputation as tending to be noise magnets. A wire dipole, loop or active loop are better options.
With your KiWi a lack of signal level seems to be the main issue. Even if there are few signals I would expect to be seeing more noise.
Is the loop antenna (I assume an MLA-30) powered correctly ?
If it is an ML-30 have you experimented with the two gain controls (one in the bias tee, the other in the loop amplifier) ?
Regards,
Martin
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Antenna Considerations / Do's and Don'ts
Unbalanced antennas are prone to noise pickup on the feed line.
Use a balanced antenna if you can, as this will provide better results.
Concentrate on the Signal to Noise Ratio rather than absolute signal strength.
A good transmit antenna is not necessarily a good receive antenna. Antenna efficiency is important on transmit, but much less so when only used for receive.
Site an antenna for the lowest noise level rather than the strongest signals.
With receive systems, it is the Signal to Noise Ratio that matters. As long as the antenna gain / sensitivity is sufficient to raise the receiver noise floor by 6dB relative to a screened 50 ohm load, then you can't improve the antenna performance any further, other than by increasing the directivity.
Directivity increases the gain in the required direction, but more importantly reduces gain in unwanted directions, including noise sources. If you have much more than 6dB increase in noise floor, you are eating away at your receiver's dynamic range, and this is especially important with wideband receivers such as the KiWi.
Owen Duffy (one of my heroes) introduced the concept of Signal to Noise Degradation, and he has many posts on the subject.
https://owenduffy.net/blog/?p=30632
ITU noise curves and required receiver noise figure. For reference, the KiWi NF is around 14dB, which is adequate at 30MHz.
https://owenduffy.net/blog/?p=15700
As you can see, a very high noise figure receiver is adequate at 1MHz, which is why electrically short active antennas can still work well at such low frequencies.
Regards,
Martin