Powernumpty

I have some FrSky Smart Port voltage and current sensors, they output 3.3V serial data (inverted).

https://code.google.com/archive/p/telemetry-convert/wikis/FrSkySPortProtocol.wiki

The only thing stopping me using them is the dense bit of wet carbon between the keyboard and chair.

OK so about the coax, antenna and items close by? We need to know what to discount as "recently tested good" (ideally on another system).

GPS is not a massively strong signal if something is wiping it out you would see what you do now, have you tried a phone app like "GPS Status" (Android) to check all is well locally? (bear in mind mobile phone GPS's are horribly good now). I just started the app on my three year old phone and it had about eight satellites indoors (from cold) in the time it took to type the last two lines.

From previous experience I would be surprised if it is software as there are many more physical things that can break GPS than software if it works to some extent.

The "Quickstart" if printed (A4) is about 37 pages now.

How about an FAQ (forum) post with the most frequently asked questions that could have a short answer but then also point to the relevant QS sections or helpful forum posts.

some FAQ candidates

1. Why is it not responsive five minutes after first boot?
2. PSU?
3. I've broken the software, how to recover?
4. How to edit.....bands, markers

FYI The forum links in the quickstart are to the older forum.

I believe 5.5mm OD 2.1mm ID

2.5mm ID is fairly common and will cause issues.

I keep a few adapters from universal power supplies to check and/or adapt.

Regards

Stu

I still think the mid-plate build is a good route for the AI. (if not in the original case)

Yellow for Kiwi+AI, Green for AI. Purple just to hold the lower 6x40x50mm plate on (holes all wrong for best heat transfer without distorting the plate here)

Red not used.

60mm Kapton tape over the purple holes (with screws) and entire length of the plate, 0.8/1mm fibre washers under the KiwiCape.

Only thing to watch for is the DC socket pins, might want to notch the plate there.

I just haven't worked out an inexpensive way to put that sort of plate in the proper case getting the heat out but not having to modify the shell. Obviously depending on the amount of material in contact it still needs some air movement but many times less than small heatsinks.

Plus I do believe there are noise gains to be had, don't have hard figures just gut feeling.

Stu