Powernumpty

The ML-30 has an impedance mismatch that means there is a noise spike around 5MHz with the supplied loop, DSL creates loads around 15MHz so phone lines are an issue.
That said for a balcony install your noise level is better than many. I don't think mine 7m from the house had that few interfering signals.

I would try another BiasTee - feed the voltage to the loop through that. The supplied BiasTee has a 5V-12V step up which does create noise. I used mine with an unregulated "6v 600ma" Linear from a DECT phone, that gives about 10V at the load presented by the ML-30. You could see a bit more noise generally but also some wanted signals may come up throught the noise.

Also buy Ferrite beads, large sizes (11-13mm) wind all your in-home cables through those a few times while watching the waterfall. I did that unitl I could not longer see a difference.
Concentrate on VDSL/ADSL lines and any switchmode supplies.

I aslo found that a large FT240 size ring on the coax (as many turns as possible) realy helped, they are expensive but really do sink the QRM.

73 Stu

It would be interesting to test both the ethernet cable and the supply to the Nano router with a few turns through ferrite.

This is a remarkable difference so I assume the Kiwi is also physicaly very close to the antenna?
If the setup is that sensitive it is probably also seeing other, less obvious noise.

I tend to purchase clip on ferrite for 11-13mm cable then add those to any cables around the Kiwi and close to the antenna.
Pass as many turns through the ferrite as will physically fit. Run the waterfall a little slower and make sure there is a decent bit of "before" prior to any changes.
One advantage of the Kiwi is that the user can have a phone right beside the cable or item under test.
I also leave another device on at the same time with the full span waterfall at half speed, I check that later to confirm any improvement.

I spent far too long doing that but it does mean now that my setup is reasonably resilient in a noise prone location (terraced houses).

http://forum.kiwisdr.com/discussion/1743/kiwi-bbai-software-alpha-test-instructions/p1

Or scroll to the bottom, look for Blue page numbers "<< 1 2 3 4 >>", go to 1.

sibamanna holds old data, mine is listed but as it was configured perhaps six months ago.
To be honest I didn't know it was back up.
I have emailed the guy in the past and he was quite helpful but I guess this is not something he gets enough payback to work on.

I was trying to spot cabinet of Kiwi's, I failed.

From the two seconds connection I managed looks like a nice view, super quiet location.
That to me, feels like a firewall somewhere (ISP?)
I connected from one PC then remembered I'd have audio issues there so connected from another very quickly. got a few seconds then timeout.
"Feels like Firewall" because I made two fast incoming connections and then it would not talk to either browser again for a few minutes then got another couple of seconds connection.

Ping seems pretty stable so doesn't look like loading / network breaks
50 packets transmitted, 50 received, 0% packet loss, time 108ms
rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 181.104/185.854/190.107/2.152 ms

I'd see if your ISP offers security as part of it's standard network features and, if it does, see if you can allow a service or lower the general level - with obvious caveats for don't lower your ISP security unless you have a good local router/firewall.

As for cooped up at home, with that view! Pah.

73 Stu

That, by the look of it, is IPv6. Your DUC is for IPv4.
Assuming the public side still gets an IPv4 address you should have other settings for that.
If you go up one menu is there not a "firewall" option, that is the description of where to set it from portforward.com (https://portforward.com/bt/smart-hub-2/

-- after a bit of search--
It might pay to disable/uninstall the DUC on the PC and try the one in the BT hub.
Beware, from a quick web search it seems the password can't be too complicated as "some characters" may stop it working.
That way, assuming the BT hub works properly, the Dynamic address should reflect what they consider your WAN address and it may even detect changes more quickly than a station/client behind the router.

Stu

Anecdotal -

I did try powering through the USB-C and was not happy with the component heating behind the input, it also does not take advantage of the DC filtering on the Kiwi.
If you try it measure temperatures and noise levels.
I can't remember exactly what was heating but the thermal image just "looked wrong".

The only way IMHO is to have a large passive heatsink.
The copper laptop cooler I used, if left with the fan off, idles at about 60C on a cool room.
I only found this by accidentally knocking the fan supply and spotting the elevated temperature later.

The BeagelBone supplied heatsink is designed for use with a fan, it is not suitable for use without.

https://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9604062.pdf Good place to start.

Here I find when the grass grows up to the bottom of the fence that normally will get it going but also wires twisted together or just plain corrosion.
I think it is any ark that will guarantee a broadband RF burst.

Where I could not help fix the fence the noise blanker would actually do a decent job so long as I occasionally adjusted for the battery dropping.

Stu