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Or scroll to the bottom, look for Blue page numbers "<< 1 2 3 4 >>", go to 1.
From the two seconds connection I managed looks like a nice view, super quiet location.
That to me, feels like a firewall somewhere (ISP?)
I connected from one PC then remembered I'd have audio issues there so connected from another very quickly. got a few seconds then timeout.
"Feels like Firewall" because I made two fast incoming connections and then it would not talk to either browser again for a few minutes then got another couple of seconds connection.
Ping seems pretty stable so doesn't look like loading / network breaks
50 packets transmitted, 50 received, 0% packet loss, time 108ms
rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 181.104/185.854/190.107/2.152 ms
I'd see if your ISP offers security as part of it's standard network features and, if it does, see if you can allow a service or lower the general level - with obvious caveats for don't lower your ISP security unless you have a good local router/firewall.
As for cooped up at home, with that view! Pah.
That, by the look of it, is IPv6. Your DUC is for IPv4.
Assuming the public side still gets an IPv4 address you should have other settings for that.
If you go up one menu is there not a "firewall" option, that is the description of where to set it from portforward.com (https://portforward.com/bt/smart-hub-2/
-- after a bit of search--
It might pay to disable/uninstall the DUC on the PC and try the one in the BT hub.
Beware, from a quick web search it seems the password can't be too complicated as "some characters" may stop it working.
That way, assuming the BT hub works properly, the Dynamic address should reflect what they consider your WAN address and it may even detect changes more quickly than a station/client behind the router.
I did try powering through the USB-C and was not happy with the component heating behind the input, it also does not take advantage of the DC filtering on the Kiwi.
If you try it measure temperatures and noise levels.
I can't remember exactly what was heating but the thermal image just "looked wrong".
The only way IMHO is to have a large passive heatsink.
The copper laptop cooler I used, if left with the fan off, idles at about 60C on a cool room.
I only found this by accidentally knocking the fan supply and spotting the elevated temperature later.
The BeagelBone supplied heatsink is designed for use with a fan, it is not suitable for use without.
https://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9604062.pdf Good place to start.
Here I find when the grass grows up to the bottom of the fence that normally will get it going but also wires twisted together or just plain corrosion.
I think it is any ark that will guarantee a broadband RF burst.
Where I could not help fix the fence the noise blanker would actually do a decent job so long as I occasionally adjusted for the battery dropping.
1. Yes, Mini whips can pick up a lot of noise on the feed, experiment, satellite coax like WF100 has great shielding at low cost, before I moved to WF100 generally I used coax (RG58) vertically down (7m) from the antenna then CCTV balun and CAT5 back to the house and another CCTV balun, noise here is severe. WF100 with F-type to BNC adapters is used here as the RX feed other than external CAT5 shielded.
2. The cable will feed common mode noise to the house and antenna. In my limited experience electrical probes are not the best choice for city locations unless you can get good separation, use a mag loop instead. I don't personally think a horizontal section will make a positive difference when you consider the wavelengths, but if it being horizontal also includes more distance from noise sources give it a go.
3. Linear is best, then play with voltage as you have, as it only needs a small supply so look at what people are throwing out, even ask older folk if they have some in the drawer*, gather linear psu's and test them for this use, some are better, some have old caps or lose transfomer windings. Obviously watch the light or off-load voltage, test before using them as often a 12V 1A linear may be 16-18V lightly loaded.
4. These need to be high, mainly to get away from noise, I really struggle to use them here, at least they are small enough to move around and try to get away from the QRM
5. I used as many grounds as I could but had most success seeing one part of the whip/feed as the "antenna" then everything after that needs to be grounded/shielded/buried
6. Voltage as long as you don't go over voltage I have seen surprisingly good results in noisy locations dropping it back, I even ran the current mag lops under "recommended" voltage range by about three volts seeing only marginal reduction in WSPR spot counts.
My experience is mostly through trial and error, the link below leads to some more insightful posts from others who have a better understandings of electronics and RF theory.
I did put an image on this forum on the layout I settled on before switching to LZ1AQ loops, If I find it later I'll link.
Mine was roughly 7m fibreglass mast, down to earth rod (lightning discharge) and air coil, low pass filter, cctv balun -CAT 5- cctv balun, earth rod, house Bias Tee with filters on the mains feed to linear psu.
* I am now "older" and have mostly draws of full stuff I "may use one day, too good to throw out".
Showing in the daily WSPR results now, excellent!
I did have a look when you first posted but as it was a quiet part of the RF day and I could not recall the previous spectrum it was hard to comment.
WSPR results are great for feedback on antennas and location, if not for WSPR my radios would probably be in a box marked "try again with new neighbours".